Types of Electric Elements:
The electrical element senses the internal water temperature. This gives you surface temperature control. Some thermostatic elements have timers that allows setting up custom schedules. They also incorporate a thermal fuse as a safety feature.
They have a fixed temperature electrical cartridge element with a built-in thermostat. They also incorporate a thermal fuse as a safety feature.
What else do I have to buy?
You only need a 3 Amp Unswitched Fused Connection into your bathroom
It needs to be less than 1 meter away from the Towel Rail, as this is the length of the lead.
What exactly is in the box?
*** Electric elements should be installed by a qualified electrician. Think about your safety first.
Check that the wall is strong enough to hold the weight of the towel rail. Mark your preferred bracket positions on the wall and drill holes for the fixings you intend to use. The diameter of the Wall Plugs supplied is 8mm and they are only suitable for solid walls. You will need alternative fixings for other wall types.
Screw the Bracket Bases to the wall using the Washers & Wall Screws provided or alternative fixings.
Loosely fit the Bracket Stems to the towel rail with the Bracket Fronts & Bracket Screws. Rotate the Bracket Stems as shown in the diagram below.
Align the Bracket Stems with the Bracket Bases and push the towel rail back into position.
Tighten the central Bracket Screws with a screwdriver.
Insert the Mini Screws into the holes in the underside of Bracket Bases and tighten with a screwdriver to fix the Bracket Stem into the Bracket Base
Push the Cover Caps into position on the Bracket Fronts.
Cut the cable to the desired length and strip the outer sleeve for approximately 40mm. Cut the coloured wires to the correct lengths and strip off approximately 5mm of the insulation on each one.
Connect the wires to a fused connection unit fitted with a 3A fuse and tighten the cord clamp.
Place the fused connection unit onto the back box and tighten the two holding screws.
|The entire towel rail does not get hot||Problem with the connection.||Electrics should be checked – Refer to Electrical Issues tab|
|Check that you have followed the Installation Manual steps accordingly|
|The fluid level is below 90%||
Top-up the towel rail by removing one of the top plugs and fill it with water only allowing around 10% of the height for expansion when the water gets hot.
If you are refilling a towel warmer from empty then a combination of 85% water and 15% corrosion inhibitor is recommended.
|The towel rail hasn't been on for long enough.||Standard Electric Towel Rails should be turned on for at least 4 hours to reach their peak temperature.|
|Some of the towel rail does not get hot enough.
(Usually bottom, top and opposite side to the element inlet)
|Fluid level||It should be approximately 90% full|
|When an electrical element is used to heat a liquid filled towel rail or radiator you will not get identical performance as you would with it connected to a central heating system. There is no circulation; therefore, it will take longer to heat up and will be noticeably hotter nearer the element.|
|After a few hours continuous use the heat would have spread but there will still be temperature variances across the surface but this is not a fault.|
|The towel rail gets too hot.||Fluid Level||It should be approximately 90% full|
(only for dual fuel towel rails or converted to electric)
|Check that the correct size element is fitted because oversizing can cause the surface temperature to get too high.|
|Towel rails feel very hot to the touch; especially chrome plated ones because they conduct heat very well. We aim to achieve a maximum surface temperature of 65°C on chrome towel rails and 83°C on painted towel rails. If the towel rail gets hotter than the temperatures stated the element might be oversized or faulty.|
|The RCD keeps tripping out||RCD||The RCD should be 30mA maximum and should be of good quality. There are many low cost & low quality ones in the market, which can cause problems without any reason|
|The RCD can trip when the Earth circuit of the building is not good enough. There is always a difference of potential difference (residual current) between Neutral and Earth coming from the Earth. This value increases with humidity and many other reasons. If the Earth connection is not good enough this will be added to the residual current generated by the electrical appliance and will often trip the RCD.|
|Every single electrical appliance is a source of residual current that normally flows from the Earth connection. If the RCD is already charged close to its tripping value (30mA), It will trip when the additional residual current is added, exceeding the tripping value. To detect this, the residual current before plugging-in the appliance should be measured to see how this is close to the limit value of the RCD.|
|Towel Rail||Wrong connection of the Neutral and the Earth. This is easy to check and detect with a multimeter.|
|Damage of the insulation material so that the live can come in contact with the body. This is easy to check and detect with a multimeter.|
|The insulation can be damaged but not touching the body but very close. This can increase the residual current above the admissible limit and the RCD will trip. This is easy to check and detect with a multimeter.|
|The device is plugged in, no diodes are on.||Problem with the connection.||Check the connection of the power wire, the plug and the socket.|
|Heating element is not heating, outside diodes are winking alternately.||Temperature sensor has been damaged.||Disconnect the device completely, wait until the radiator cools down and connect it back again.|
|Overheating of device.||Check if the radiator has been filled with the heating agent in a proper manner according to manufacturer’s instructions.|
|The device is heating despite turning it off with the ON/OFF button.||Electronics damage.||Disconnect the device completely, wait until the radiator cools down and connect it back again.|